‘La tienda pequena que podría’: Mexican groceria thrives despite setbacks

Publication: POINT PARK NEWS SERVICE

Publication Date: September 27, 2010

*Photo credits included in original PPNS online article

By Faith Cotter
Point Park News Service

The crowd on the sidewalk congregated around a man making tacos on an outdoor grill, who passed them out to waiting customers as the notes from snippets of conversations in Spanish and English fill the air, mixing with the pungent smell of spice and meat.

Three of the brothers Berumen — (from left) Francisco, Gabriel and Jose — prepare dinner outside their Las Palmas store in Brookline. Keith Hodan | Tribune-Review

The man is Jose Berumen, one of four brothers who manage Las Palmas, a red-bricked grocery store in Brookline that specializes in selling Mexican food and meat. A rarity in Pittsburgh, the little corner store has become a hit within the community, even though the Berumen family faced some uncertainties in the beginning.

“We were wary because a lot of people told us that Mexicans don’t come to Brookline,” Missy Berumen, wife of Gabriel Berumen, said. “But the people have been incredible, and very nice.”

Missy met her husband in Indianapolis, where the brothers worked for a landscaping company. Two years ago on a visit to some of her cousins in Pittsburgh, they saw the opportunity to open a carniceria in a city where the Latino culture is not widely represented in the food industry.
By opening their own store, they also saw the opportunity to take control of their future.

“We wanted to own our own business,” Luis Berumen said. “We could run things the way we wanted, be our own boss.”

On Brookline Boulevard, the store sees a steady stream of pedestrian traffic, but the business nearly suffered a fatal blow delivered by city officials.

“They tried to issue an ordinance that would prevent us from cooking outside,” Missy said.

Customers gather outside Las Palmas Carniceria y Supermercado, a Mexican grocery store and butcher shop in Brookline. Keith Hodan | Tribune-Review

When the customers found out, they got involved. They wrote letters to the city voicing their satisfaction with the business and objection to the city putting a stop to the store’s outdoor cooking.
Greg Purdue works as a fire fighter for Engine 26, where he spends his workdays, on the corner next to Las Palmas, and he is a fan.

“The way they (Las Palmas) make the food, it’s good,” he said. “The spices and avocado tasted better than the ready-made, store-bought kind.”

The community support worked, and customers can stop by for a taco on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during the warmer months. When the weather turns frosty, the Berumens said customers can expect food to be served inside at the front of the store.

“We’re very thankful for the support of the community,” Missy said.

Customers peruse offerings in Las Palmas Carniceria y Supermercado, a Mexican grocery store and butcher shop. Keith Hodan | Tribune-Review

Customers come from as close as Brookline and Beechview and from as far as Washington County and West Virginia to enjoy fajitas, tamales and other foods native to Mexico. Boxes of cereal and cleaning supplies line the shelves, with colorful piñatas hanging from the ceiling.

The Berumens are considering the possibility of branching out and opening more stores in other neighborhoods in Pittsburgh.

“If it weren’t for the people, we wouldn’t be here,” Missy said. “We would have crashed the first quarter.”

~ by Faith Cotter on 09/28/2010.